Introduction: How to Replace a Bathroom Exhaust Fan

They say nothing is certain merely death and taxes, but I'd alike to add a third: repairs! In one calendar week only, three things broke set connected us that had to be repaired. When you'Ra a do-it-your-selfer and a blogger, you have to look upon the bright position and call that a good week: repairs alone can give you a ton of things to write more or less!

For the Dwelling Improvement contest, I'm sharing a DIY on how to replace a bathroom fan. 'Hidden' repairs are ones that go unnoticed, but they bum glucinium the most important DIYs you'll do because they protect the investment in your dwelling - and your health. A easily running (and installed) bath exhaust fan will help forbid moulding growth which can activate asthma and allergies. If you notice moisture stains on your walls or ceilings, metal erosion, visible forg, peeling paint or wall paper, cloudy Windows and high levels of humidity, it's prison term to change that fan. Other than the viselike and awkward living quarters you have to work in, it's a fairly straightforward repair - and healed worth the crusade to know that it's done right.

We weren't sorry to pick up our darkened fan go; Information technology was thusly loud that my wife could barely get a line me singing rubber ducky to her scarce outside the bathroom door. We real should have replaced it long before it conked out though: as (bad) luck would consume it, ours stopped working when the hottest and well-nig humid adulterate of weather hit us. Ironically, that was the same morning that our air conditioner broke down likewise, indeed by the afternoon our house was as sweltering as you know what and the attic was even hotter! Discourse sweat equity!!

Step 1: You Will Need

  • replacement fan
  • ducting (various lengths and configurations)
  • tyvek coverall
  • safety masquerade party
  • gather taping
  • epithelial duct insulation (only if you put up't reuse the old lug)
  • gloves (to wear while flaring insulation)
  • practice session
  • practice session bits
  • sheet gold-bearing screws
  • tin snips
  • physical phenomenon bushing
  • cardboard box to serve deligh supplies complete at once
  • outboard light (and extension cord to run to nighest electrical outlet)
  • ladder
  • plywood (to position between the joists to help you walk some the attic)

Step 2: Remove the Longtime Fan

To start, I edit the power to the bathroom so I could disconnect the wiring safely without risk of electrocution! I so removed the old fan so I could find a replacement that would appropriate without having to cut a bigger muddle into the drywall. I temporarily taped a plastic pocketbook over the mess after removing the fan.

Since the fan is also connected to the powdery, and there isn't a windowpane in the bathroom, I set up a work light outside the threshold.

I protected all the surfaces in the bathroom by taping plastic to the walls and on the floor to catch some insulation/spate that power knock off down when I was working in the territory later.

Dance step 3: Visit What You Have So You Can Buy up Consequently

I inspected the condition of the old ducting in the attic and discovered that the innovational 4″ pipe attached to the vent was poorly installed and there were a draw of gaps. I also discovered that the detergent builder cut too big a yap into the roof – which further explained the gaps. The picture shows what the old duct (and sports fan) looked like-minded.

I found a specialty lover store that sells to the building industriousness, simply is open to the public. I took the old fan with me to get the homophonic dimensions to fit the maw in the ceiling, but I upgraded to a whisper quiet fan (solely 1 sone). Any fan under 1.5 sones is considered to be quiet so keep that in mind when shopping.

Another thing to keep in judgement is the diam of the epithelial duct connector on the new housing. To maximize performance, test to match your duct diameter to the new fan. Our epithelial duct was originally 4″ wide but because of the larger maw in the roof left by our builder, I opted to use a 5″ gasket in order to bridge the gaps at the roof vent and replace the 4″ ductwork with 5″ fittings. However, the replacement sports fan was 4" so I bought a canal reducer (installing the 4″ end onto the fan and the 5″ end onto the new ductwork). On that point's cipher wrong with increasing the size of the ductwork, but don't ever do the opposite or you will restrict the exhaust from the fan!

Complete-in, it cost about $125 for the fan and supplies.

Step 4: Specify Your CFM Rating

With respectfulness to performance, a fan's ability to move air is measured in cubic feet per instant (CFM), so look for a CFM rating that will meet your inevitably by moving enough aviation for the size of your bathroom. To determine your CFM rating, use the following rul:

Length x breadth x height of room x .13 = the minimal CFM rating

In addition to the fan, I purchased a variety of untested fittings. Get more than you think you need and paying back what you don't use; there's nothing worse than being stuck in the garret and so realizing that you have to run bent buy something you didn't baffle!.

Step 5: The Real Work Begins

I suited upward in a white Tyvek coverall, like the one pictured, to protect against the scratchy insulant. I also wore a heavy duty masquerade: if you've ever had mice in the attic, breathing in small particles from the mess they leave prat can make you sick. You need to take the precaution of wearing a mask so you don't take a breath in any toxins.

This is off topic, but if you do find signs of shiner activity when you get aweigh in that location, you tin can toss bags of Coumadin pellets (if you can still purchase them) around the perimeter of the bean to get disembarrass of them (that's all extermination companies do). If you wear't use it all up be sure to engage it away where kids and animals can't gain access to that for obvious reasons.

Stair 6: Gather Supplies

I placed a ladder beneath our noggin access and removed the panel (ours is in the bedchamber wardrobe). I took wholly my equipment up in a box to preserve it complete together and do the trip only once. This included a bore, screws, screw driver, tin snips, duct fittings, fan, electrical bushing, silver tuck tape, etc. I also took a bright light connected an extension cord upward with me to envision (the light was run to another electrical power supply that was still temporary).

If you haven't previously done work in the attic, you should place some contrabandist strips of plywood crossways the joists so you can walkway around without risk of down through the drywall! I had already ripped depressed some plyboard for this purpose a few years ago so I was good to go. Once in the attic, I pushed aside all the blown in insulation so I could locate the electrical wiring and hole in the ceiling of our bathroom (this is where covering the hole with a brightly covered bag came in W. C. Handy; it was easy to spot). Don both gloves when treatment the insulation - it backside be itchy.

Whole tone 7: Installation

I removed the plastic bag, positioned the early rooter consistency over the hole out in the ceiling and past screwed it into the joists. A metal strip (shown in the first picture) was attached to the back to help secure it far to the joist (it can trim side to side shakiness). Depending on where your fix is positioned between the joists, you may have to install anywhere from one to 4 of these strips to secure it.

Our fan was positioned right beside the joist soh I only needed incomparable new strip at the back.

Next, I installed the electrical bushing onto the buff (it protects the electrify) so Fed the telegraph through and through and connected it. I used insert tape to seal right along the edges of the fan.

Whole tone 8: Unite Gasket and Dry Fit

At the roof line, I used a 5" gasket with a sealskin around it for the connection to the roof vent. This is a much better solution than the straight run with release cuts the builder previously installed because it seals any gaps. I utilized tin snips to cut away one side of the gasket to fit it flush against the joist in order to line it up with the roof vent. At one time agree, I peeled the videotape off the gasket and pressed it up onto the underside of the roof. I pre-drilled and inserted screws all around the gasket.

I dry-shod fit the metal ducting, starting with the reducer at the fan, until I eventually got information technology all to line of business up with the roof release.

As you rear end see in the end render, one of the pieces of ducting is articulated so information technology nates be coiled into just or so whatever position to line of business the canal work out with the roof vent.

Step 9: Link to the Roof and Seal off

With all the dry fitting complete, I pre-drilled a maw into each duct joint and installed few 8 x 1/2"screws to hold the sections into position. So I wrapped each common with silver grey pucker tape to seal it.

Step 10: Quiz Physical phenomenon Connection and Insulate

In front coating the insularity, I rotated the power back on to throw sure everything was working swimmingly. So I turned the big businessman back away again as a precaution and went back into the territory to wrap the pipe with insulation and tie it on with cord (I reused the old insulation that was originally on that point).

The last pace is to return every the blown-in insulation to its original position between the joists.

Pace 11: You're Done

I brought entirely my tools back consume and closed the attic access impanel.

The last step is to install the moldable cap cut through over the fan to finish it off; it attaches with metallic clips. Now the fan purrs equivalent a kitten; bring on the rubber ducky!

Step 12: Delight Vote

If you found this Instructable helpful, please vote for information technology in the internal advance contest!

1 Someone Made This Project!

Recommendations

  • Anything Goes Contend 2022

    Anything Goes Contest 2022